Why Morocco?

Viv gave Lauren a Moroccan cookbook for Christmas, so we might as well make good use of it.

My experience of Morocco

I have been extremely lucky to have been to Morocco twice. In August 2009, Karma, Lauren, Will, Liam and I had a few days in Marrakech. Truly, if there is one place to visit before you die, it has to be Marrakech. Djemaa el-fna is the most wonderful souk imaginable, and is all noise, colour, action, smells – everything that stimulates the senses. Beware the water sellers though (see below).

In March 2009, I went on a 10-day tour of Morocco. It is the most amazing country, and every moment there was a lesson in life. I’m afraid I let myself be disappointed in Casablanca – maybe I expected Humphrey Bogart to be at the airport, gaze in to my eyes and say “here’s looking at you, kid”. But, of course, that was never going to happen.

Hussein II mosque in Casablanca
The Hussein II mosque in Casablanca

Casablanca is the home of the fabulous Hussein II mosque, which according to Wikipedia (and we know that Wikipedia never lies) has the tallest minaret in the world, at 210 metres. It is an extraordinarily beautiful building, but its beauty creates a stark contrast to the rest of Casablanca.

And Fez. Don’t forget Fez. Fez is the home of the one of the largest medinas in the world, apparently it is listed as a World Heritage Site. Like Marrakech’s Djemaa El-fna, it is a wonderful assault on the senses. A visit to the tannery at Fez is another Moroccan must, although I’m sure it smells worse than Labyrinth’s Bog of Eternal Stench (I miss you, David Bowie!). They give you bunches of mint to sniff when you go in, but it is entirely ineffective – that’s how bad it is.

The bog of eternal stench at Fez
The tannery at Fez

And so to the water sellers.

We were warned about how pushy the various tourist touts in Morocco would be. But the water sellers at the Djemaa El-fna take the cake in my experience. We were warned to always negotiate a price before taking photos of tourist touts. Ten dirham was the standard and, at about A$1, it wasn’t going to break any banks.

I asked a water seller if I could take his photo. No problems, that’ll be ten dirham. So then he called some of his mates over and said he would use my camera to take a photo of me with them. If I wasn’t so naïve, I would have heard the alarm bells then. The photo was duly taken, and I asked for my camera back. But, suddenly, the cost had gone up to 100 dirham. When I said that we had agreed on ten dirham, the water seller (the one in the middle in the photo below) reminded me that he had my camera. Ten Australian dollars later, I had my camera back.

To be fair though, I did see the water sellers giving money to the beggars in the souk, so they were prepared to spread their income around. I understand that giving alms to the poor is one of the five pillars of Islam, so I didn’t mind too much that my $10 was used in a respectful way. And they have a living to make as well. I never let any tourist touts go near my camera after that, though.

Marrakech water sellers – a photo with a back story!!

Water sellers at Marrakech
Marrakech water sellers


My first pass through Lauren’s new cookbook gave me 18 recipes to try, and given that Liam and Lani are unlikely to try any of it and Elysia will be very hesitant, it leaves three big people to eat 18 lots of food. Ummm, that just ain’t gunna work.

So, after some heavy culling I got it down to 12, and will make half, and even quarter, quantities. My workmate, Jess, doesn’t think I understand the meaning of the word “cull”, but some very difficult decisions were made – it was hard work, Jess!

Looking through the menu later, I realised that I had left off those two most Moroccan of foods – tagine and couscous. The tagine I have is rather big, so I might have to leave it out for this time. Although maybe I could serve some of the food in the tagine. And I bought some couscous – just in case we’re still hungry.

I wonder what questions Quizmaster Will will come up with.

Here’s the factsheet – morocco-factsheet

Here’s the place-mat – place-mat-morocco

Now’s its off to the supermarket, then hitting the kitchen for lunch in Morocco on Sunday.

wadaeaan al’an

(my translate app tells me that that means “goodbye for now” but I guess it could mean anything)

Lunch in Morocco, Sunday 26 February 2017

Oh, Morocco. How you amazed us with your flavours, your subtlety, your variety!

Our lunch in Morocco was wonderful. On another perfect Melbourne summer’s day, we decided to eat outside under the shade of the neighbour’s trees.

I was worried during the menu planning stage that it would all taste the same. Every savoury dish seemed to have dried cumin and coriander in it and fresh coriander and parsley on it (as a garnish). But I should have known that I could trust centuries of Moroccan cooks – every dish was deliciously different, and each complemented the other perfectly.

I would never order soup in a restaurant, but decided to make Harira (lamb and chickpea soup) as a mark of respect to Islam. According to my recipe book, harira is served to break the fast during Ramadan. It was the most hearty, delicious soup I have ever eaten, and will most certainly go into my list of favourite recipes. I suspect that harira is a bit like spag bol, in that there are many different variations – all of them good, but all of them subtly different. The version we tried could not be improved, I’m sure. It was simply wonderful.

Another recipe to keep is beyssara, which is broad bean dip. Except that it needs dried broad beans, and I left it far too late to source non-traditional foods like dried broad beans! I used canned butter beans instead, but the result was delicious. Maybe even better than homemade hommous.

And the filled savoury pancakes! Homemade pastry filled with savoury minced beef then rolled and fried. So very yummy!

The slow-roasted lamb with cumin was easily one of the best roast lamb dishes I’ve had. It was even better than the slow-roasted lamb shoulder at Cumulus Inc. And if you’ve ever had the slow-roasted lamb shoulder at Cumulus Inc, you will understand what a big call that is. It was impossible to stop picking at it.

And if you try nothing else from these pages, try this. Cut the skin and rind off a chunk of watermelon, cut the flesh into 2 cm cubes, put them into a bowl, sprinkle with rosewater, refrigerate for one hour, then sprinkle with chopped mint before serving. This is seriously pimped-up watermelon, and it was even more impossible to stop picking at than the lamb was. In fact, we didn’t stop picking at it, and managed to eat half a watermelon between us.

And the mint tea at the end of our feast settled our stomachs nicely, just as it is supposed to do.

It was so very hard to pick a favourite out of this menu.

I had said that Chile would be a hard act to to follow. Move over, Chile – Morocco is now the benchmark.

The menu

  • Broad bean dip
  • Warm olives with lemon and herbs
  • Fried pastries with seafood
  • Filled savoury pancakes
  • Lamb and chickpea soup
  • Slow roasted lamb with cumin
  • Spicy prawns
  • Fried potato cakes
  • Beetroot and cumin salad
  • Tomato and preserved lemon salad
  • Watermelon with rosewater and mint
  • And, of course, mint tea. It’s not a visit to Morocco without mint tea.

And hot dogs for the kids, which I served on some of the blue platters I bought when I was in Morocco. Which makes them Moroccan hotdogs. Easy peasy!

Where to next?

And next month, it’s off to Jamaica. The land of Bob Marley, Usain Bolt, jerk chicken, reggae music.

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